Last week, as many companies began rolling back DEI policies that were meant to give Black-owned brands more visibility, market access, capital, and investment, it sparked a major conversation within the Black community.
This shift is especially significant for Black-owned beauty brands that were fortunate enough to secure shelf space in major retailers but now find themselves caught between boycotts and potential community backlash. One of the most notable success stories of DEI efforts is Tabitha Brown, who has now become a key figure in this conversation due to the incredible success she’s had in getting her products into major retailers like Target.
Tabitha started her career as a content creator, sharing videos about vegan cooking, health, and self-care on Facebook and TikTok. Her video review of Whole Foods’ vegan BLT sandwich went viral in 2017, leading to her becoming a brand ambassador for the company and now a household name. As they say, the rest is history!
The positive and negative impact of DEI (Diversity, Equity, and Inclusion) initiatives on Black brands is viewed from many angles–from increased visibility, capital and support to concerns about “tokenism” and the commodification of Black culture.
To understand whether DEI helps or hinders Black beauty brands specifically, we need to look at both aspects and how those policies intersect with the beauty industry.
“Target” is the target of DEI talk
One particular company in the spotlight is Target, which announced they would be eliminating their DEI program after committing $2 billion dollars to create more equitable experiences for Black customers and business owners.
Many in the Black community are disappointed, especially since Target is one of the few companies to push for the inclusion of Black-owned beauty brands.
For example, they made a commitment to purchase products targeted to Black consumers thus increasing public visibility of lesser known brands and driving foot traffic. They also invested in funding, mentoring, and business development programs like the Target Founders Forward accelerator to help Black entrepreneurs scale their businesses.
Do DEI Policies Promote Diversity or Tokenism?
While DEI policies are designed to promote diversity, equity and inclusion, they can sometimes lead to “tokenism,” which is when Black-owned brands are included or marketed simply to appear diverse, without receiving meaningful, long-term investment.
The 2020 killing of George Floyd serves as a prime example of this. In the wake of his death, many companies rushed to show solidarity with Black businesses, but some only sought to appear empathetic, while others genuinely acknowledged the barriers Black brands face in securing space on big-box retail shelves.
Critics argue that some companies use DEI efforts as a way to exploit Black culture for short-term profit, without truly committing to long-term support for Black communities or entrepreneurs.
Segregation By Any Other Name Is Still Segregation
Even when policies or practices like DEI are meant to level the playing field, the underlying impact can remain unchanged. Segregating products in stores or simply rebranding existing structures doesn’t address the core issues of division, exclusion, or inequality.
As the owner of the only “glue-less” eyelash adhesive in an industry worth $600 million, I know firsthand how challenging it is to get products into big-box retail, especially when the brand is labeled “Black-owned.” Despite being a Black woman and the fact that Black women account for 87% of the nearly $600 million in annual sales, Goodbye Glue was created for all women, not just Black women.
From the beginning, I made a conscious decision to avoid language that could “pigeonhole” either me or “Goodbye Glue.” I’ve always maintained that identifying brands as “Black-owned” and segregating them in stores can have unintended financial consequences. This kind of segmentation also limits our potential reach and hurts the bottom line.
For example, a Jewish girl or Hispanic boy with coarse or curly hair would benefit from products designed for that hair texture. However, if those products are placed in a section labeled “Black” more likely than not non-Black customers will dismiss them, simply by assuming they aren’t meant for them.
While I totally understand the need to raise awareness and make it easier for Black brands to be identified in stores and celebrated, I often wonder how many Black individuals were at the table when decisions about product placement were made.
More importantly, perhaps it’s time for Black-owned beauty brands to take control of our own destination. In 1905, a gentleman by the name of O.W. Gurley did just that when he purchased 40 acres of land in Tulsa, Oklahoma. Mr. Gurley amassed a fortune and so did many other Black entrepreneurs when he initiated the creation of a thriving Black community where products were manufactured, bought, traded and sold by us and for us. That community is famously known as “Black Wall Street” and designated as the Greenwood district.
The Black Wall Street Mentality
Mr. Gurley was a true pioneer and visionary who didn’t have access to resources or programs like DEI when he built Black Wall Street.
Against all odds and through sheer willpower, determination, and resilience, Gurley and the Black community created a model of success. He believed that Black people had a greater chance of economic progress if they pooled their resources, collaborated, and supported one another’s businesses. In fact, Gurley laid the groundwork for our generation to pick it up and run with it.
Fast forward post-desegregation, integration and melting into society has led us to not knowing how to respond when a crisis happens. The removal of DEI policies from Target, Walmart and other big box retailers is a great example.
Perhaps it’s time for Black-owned beauty brands to unite and follow the Gurley blueprint. In the meantime, there’s things we can do.
What Can Black Owned Beauty Brand Do as DEI dies?
I recently sat down with D. Cherelle, CFO Consulting Strategist and Founder of FinTraum, to get perspective that could help Black brands move forward.
I specifically asked her what advice she would offer to Black-owned brands that have thrived in big-box retail markets under DEI policies, but are now facing the possibility of those policies being reduced or eliminated?
“I believe that the rollback of DEI initiatives in corporate America is more than just a shift in policy,” says D. Cherelle. It’s a direct hit to the economic mobility of Black beauty entrepreneurs. These initiatives weren’t handouts; they were long-overdue corrections to systemic barriers that kept Black-owned brands out of major retail spaces. Now, with these doors closing, it’s time for Black beauty founders to pivot, protect their businesses, and strategize for long-term sustainability.
Your spot on the shelf is no longer secured by corporate commitments to diversity, it’s secured by your numbers, your brand loyalty, and your ability to drive sales. One thing brands can do is exclusive product drops that align with the retailer’s audience. Another is to focus on cutting unnecessary costs, negotiating better supplier terms, and strengthening your profit margins.”
I also asked D. Cherelle what advice she would give to Black-owned beauty brands that weren’t able to secure placements in big-box retailers and were hoping DEI initiatives would provide an opportunity for a small contract or a foot in the door?
“Even if you’re not in big-box stores yet, operate like you are. Have your financials in order, your supply chain tight, and your business credit strong. When the opportunity comes, you need to be ready.”
D. Cherelle also believes that brands should focus on building a strong online presence so that when retailers come looking, you have the upper hand.
“I won’t sugarcoat it, this shift is tough. But Black entrepreneurs have always built success in systems not designed for us. The brands that survive will be the ones that take control of their finances, build direct customer relationships, and refuse to wait for permission. The new game is self-sufficiency. Play it well,” says D. Cherelle.
Finally, there are big box retailers that still support DEI initiatives. In addition, there are things we can do right now to keep supporting Black-owned brands through these uncertain times:
- Go to the website of a Black-owned beauty brand and purchase directly online.
- Start building a database of Black-owned beauty brands and include the website, owner’s name, location (if bricks and mortars); email and telephone number and share online.
- Continue to support those brands whose partners have eliminated DEI through the transition period.
In order to overcome these challenges and avoid finding ourselves in crisis mode, we have to start building a community FUBU where we have “total” ownership and control over the manufacturing and distribution systems, regardless of how DEI impacts our beauty brands.
As always, The Black Wall Street Times stands firm with you. For more information on how to navigate post DEI, please write to me at: lisa@bwstimes.com. If interested in learning more about financial impacts or planning, contact D. Cherelle at info@fintraum.com or on Instagram @itsdcherelle
Related Stories:
- Week 1: 12 Weeks of Healing: Black women living well in 2025
- Week 2: My Black is beautiful: How to erase hundreds of years of programming
- Week 3: The 3 B’s: Black women spend billions on beauty; how to take ownership
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